Havana looks the way it does for complicated reasons, but the result is one of the most visually extraordinary cities on Earth — 1950s American cars rumbling past crumbling Spanish-colonial facades in every shade of pastel, live son music drifting out of doorways, and a skyline that hasn't chased modern development the way most capitals have. It demands a slower kind of travel: things don't always run on schedule, cash is essential, and Wi-Fi is something you find rather than assume. In return, you get a city that feels like nowhere else.